Lifestyle

The fruit crossing continents and cultures

The golden-fleshed fruit sees a boom in summer sales and a roadside phenomenon appear.

This summer, vans laden with crates of ripe, juicy mangoes have become a common sight on many streets in Yorkshire, as shoppers eagerly purchase the prized fruit during its peak season. However, this roadside display represents a significant seasonal economy that spans 4,000 miles across continents and embodies a rich culinary heritage passed down through generations.

In South Asian supermarkets across West Yorkshire, hundreds of boxes of the "king of fruits" are sold daily, with importers, wholesalers, drivers, grocers, and dessert shops all benefiting from the high demand. Satvir Meen of the Yorkshire Asian Business Association explains, "Mango season is hugely important, and across Yorkshire for a lot of retailers it's one of the biggest seasonal trading periods of the year." She notes that retailers often prepare months in advance because customers anticipate specific mango varieties from India and Pakistan, which "definitely drives footfall and spending."

Meen attributes much of this demand to cultural memory and family heritage. "The emotional connection translates into strong commercial demand, with many customers buying entire boxes rather than individual pieces of fruit."

In Bradford, businessman Imran Khan's passion for mangoes led him to organize a festival dedicated to them. Believing there are "101 things you can do with a mango," the event showcased numerous dishes, from mango trifle and fresh mango lassi to spicy mango salad and various mango cakes. Khan explains, "We only have a few months of summer, and mangoes come out at that time," referring to both the British summer and the traditional peak season for Indian and Pakistani mangoes, which conclude in July and September, respectively. His personal favorite is a fresh mango lassi.

At the festival, visitors shared their preferred methods of eating mangoes, exchanging memories and sampling the fruit's golden flesh in a multitude of drinks, desserts, and savory dishes. One visitor described twisting open a ripe mango and adding ice cream, while another preferred thinly slicing hers and eating it directly from the skin. Arissa Khan mentioned her grandfather always buys her mangoes, and her sister Alisha demonstrated what she called the "Pakistani way": squeezing the fruit like a tube of toothpaste, popping off the top, and sucking out the pulp. Another woman admitted she never cuts a mango herself, stating, "I only have it if my mum cuts it. I have it diced because I like to sit in the garden and read, so I don't want to get my hands dirty if I'm holding my book."

Bushra Taimur, visiting from Canada, called mangoes "the king among all the fruits," emphasizing that their importance extends beyond their sweet flavor and vitamins. "It's not just a season, it's a feeling," she explained. "We all enjoy it among our families. It's like heritage or culture for us. It's the memories we can share with each other." When jokingly asked how far she would go for a good mango, one superfan replied, "Five miles. Leeds Road in Bradford is the place. It's the hottest spot."

At Abu Bakr supermarket in Leeds, demand is measured in boxes rather than individual mangoes. Javed, an employee, estimated the store sold 60 to 100 boxes daily during peak season, with some customers purchasing two or three boxes at a time and returning every other day. Customer Hussnain, buying a Chaunsa mango—the most popular variety as the Pakistani peak season nears its end—highlighted the significance of ritual and memory. "We would buy a lot of mangoes, go to our old house, gather all the family members and eat the mangoes," he reminisced about his childhood. "They remind me of home."

The appeal of mangoes extends beyond South Asian communities. Haji Kamara, a Gambian customer at Abu Bakr, simply stated, "I like them. Simple as that. My favourite is Gambian mangoes. I peel a mango and then make it into juice. It's sweet." Mangoes also hold unique tastes, traditions, and deep cultural associations within African, Caribbean, and other diaspora communities.

This strong emotional connection across communities translates into substantial trade. In 2024, the UK imported nearly 87,000 tonnes of fresh or dried mangoes. Pakistan and India collectively supplied almost 15,000 tonnes, valued at approximately £44.5 million, representing roughly one-fifth of the UK's import value for that combined category. According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, worldwide exports of mangoes, mangosteens, and guavas reached about 2.5 million tonnes in 2024, a 3% increase from 2023.

Satvir Meen of the Yorkshire Asian Business Association reiterated that mango season is a crucial period for many South Asian supermarkets and food businesses. She noted that customers are "extremely knowledgeable and particular," seeking "a specific variety from a particular region, with the right flavour, texture and ripeness." The benefits extend beyond the fruit display, as "people buy mangoes, but then do a wider shop at the same time," leading to "increased basket spend as well as higher customer numbers" for retailers. This spending also benefits importers, wholesalers, drivers, independent grocers, restaurants, cafes, dessert shops, and caterers.

Along Bradford's roads, vans overflowing with boxes of mangoes (and occasionally other fruits) have become a characteristic sight of the summer. While customers and mango enthusiasts were easy for the BBC to find, convincing a seller to speak proved more challenging, possibly due to recent questions regarding the authorization of such fruit vans. After several attempts, seller Jagseer agreed to speak off camera, with only his van photographed. Roadside fruit vans, particularly those with crates of mangoes spilling out and queues of people waiting, are a regular sight in areas like Toller Lane or Leeds Road in Bradford.

Jagseer stated he has sold fruit for two years and thousands of mangoes during the season. On busy days, he believes 100 to 200 customers stop and buy. The reason for the demand is straightforward: "Wherever you are from, you like mangoes. Everyone likes them."

Bradford Council reported no persistent problems with roadside fruit trading, and previous complaints have not indicated breaches of highway legislation. The council stated it can act if there is evidence of an obstruction, safety risk, or traffic offense.

For Satvir Meen, the economics are simple. "I don't think supermarkets and roadside sellers are necessarily competing directly. Many customers will use both. They're different parts of the same seasonal mango economy, serving slightly different customer needs." She explained that vans can focus on a few premium varieties and generate excitement around fresh arrivals, while supermarkets offer a broader shopping experience.

"Mango season demonstrates how cultural traditions shape consumer behaviour, support local businesses and create economic activity across an entire supply chain," Satvir added. "It's not just about fruit. It's a visible example of how South Asian communities have helped shape Yorkshire's food culture and local economy."

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